May 20, 2023: The City Centre
I started out the morning with my usual breakfast: a hard-boiled egg, a pastry, yogurt and an espresso. Then we headed to our language class for the day with Catia. She taught us how to order in a café. She also let us know the differences between a macchiato, a cappuccino, and a caffe. We also discussed feminine and masculine precursors to food and drinks whether that be "una" or "un".
We then left to go to the market in the city centre. Nicole and I shopped around and bought a few trinkets for friends. I ordered an espresso, "un porta via" or to go. I was doing a pretty good job at understanding and speaking Italian throughout the market, however, I was a little unsure interacting with the barista. Mateo was luckily there to help me though she gave him slack for speaking in English.
We then jumped on the "mini metro" to get to Pincetto. We immediately headed to the pizzeria called, "il Bacio". We sat down and each ordered our own pizza. I ordered the 'messicana' pizza which consisted of tomato, mozzarella, olives, roasted peppers, corn, spicy salami and onions. It was probably the best pizza I have ever had. The crust in Italy is truly one of a kind. Even the best Italian restaurant that I've been to in America does not hold a candle to the crust here. The tomatoes never cease to amaze me in their complexity and flavor. I do not love tomatoes back home, but really love them here. The spicy salami with the tomato sauce blended beautifully and was not too overpowering.
One of the girls at our table ordered a Nutella pizza for dessert. We recently learned that Nutella is actually made here. I did not want a whole slice but wanted to try it so I cut a small corner of it. The Nutella tasted the same as it does back home, however, the crust was very soft and buttery. It definitely elevated the flavor of the Nutella.
Catia then told us about the fountain in the center of the city called "Fontana Maggiore" built in 1278. She explained how the fountain contains the "Power of Perugia" engraved on it. It is organized through elevation and liberation order. Not only does it have zodiac signs around it, but biblical drawings, as well. Adam and Eve as well as Samson and Delilah are carved in the fountain with Latin inscriptions. The idea was that these politicians and biblical figures would inspire the people to advance themselves in their grammar, dielectric geometry, etc. The three bronze ladies at the top of the fountain represent the past, present and future. They believed that you need to have the knowledge of the past and the present to create a better future.
We then had some free time to explore and shop around the city. I went into the Cathedral of Perguia across from the fountain which was built in 1345 but was finished in the 1400's. This chapel is home to the Holy Ring which is the wedding ring of the Virgin Mary given to her by Joseph. Being a Christian myself, this was pretty amazing and interesting to me. The tale was that by the end of July 1473, a friar named Vinterio originally from Germany, brought it to Rome. He acquired it from a goldsmith from Chiusi named Ainerio who received it from a Jewish merchant. This merchant inherited this jewel as he was from the line of Mary and this relic had been passed down. There was a lot of respect and fear in handling the jewel so it was handed over to the church.
The inscription in front of the church reads, "domvm dei decet sanctitv do." This translates to, "I give holiness to the Lord God." Catia explained to me that the inscription and the cross outside of the church was put there to notify the pope that though they were excommunicated that they were Christians. The pope put a tax on salt so this was their effort to not pay the extra tax. They tried to fight the pope, but obviously lost.
When we went through the Rocca Paolina (Pauline Fortress), Catia mentioned how the war against the pope was the reason that the people use unsalted bread; they didn't want to pay the tax on their salt. The people's loss resulted in the demolition of this landmark. Catia showed us where the gate to the fortress use to be.
We came back to the villa and had another cooking class. For this class we made spaghetti alla carbonara and saltimbocca alla Romana. The spaghetti was cooked in the fat from the pork with some egg yolks and cheese. It was very light and simple in taste but the cured pork was incredibly flavorful and probably needed a more understated pasta sauce paired with it. The veal and prosciutto combination was thinly sliced and slightly crispy since both sides were dipped in flour and placed on the stove. I had never had veal before this meal and enjoyed the dish a lot. I do not eat a lot of pork at home, so being in the pork capital of Italy has been an adjustment and eating this type of meat more frequently.
I learned how politics even overseas have at one point influenced nutrition throughout a community. The United States can relate to this as the USDA, FDA and other government organizations monitor our food supply. I attended the Advocacy Summit this spring and spoke with a representative over some changes that should be made legislatively to properly address the current nutritional concerns. I think the people of Perugia tried to do something similar with the 'salt war'.
However, if changes can't be implemented, how do nutritional professionals proceed? I think something that could make a huge impact is encouraging more personal gardens and growing more food throughout communities and schools. I think highlighting purchasing foods from farmers' markets and supporting local food businesses instead of large grocery chains and being more intentional about meal planning would be a wonderful start.
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